One of the most frightening
demonstrations of the energy carried by a wave is shown by the tsunami. One such series of
waves was generated by the undersea earthquake off the coasty of Sumatra in Indonesia on
26th December 2004. The earthquake reached 9.0 on the Richter scale and the resulting
tsunamis devastated coastal regions of eleven countries from Indonesia to Africa – killing
over 120 000 people.
In deep water such as the Pacific Ocean a tsunami might
travel at about 200 m/s, or nearly 450 miles/hr. The rate at which a wave loses its energy is
inversely related to its wave length, and since tsunamis have very long wavelengths and
travel at high speeds, they can also travel very large distances across the ocean with only
limited energy losses.
As a tsunami leaves the deep water of the open ocean and
travels into the shallower water near the coast, it changes. A tsunami travels at a speed that
is related to the water depth - therefore as the water depth in which it is moving decreases,
the tsunami slows down. However the energy content of the tsunami is more or less constant
and so as the tsunami slows down it increases in height reaching a height of many metres or
even tens of metres as it hits the coast.